Pavones

The Supermarket Rio Claro sells basic food items, personal supplies, household items and gas for cooking.  There are several other mini-grocery stores in the town of Pavones and the surrounding area. 

Phones

GSM cell phone service is intermittent.  Along the beach at various points and up high, GSM cell phone signals may be found.  TDMA service is more widely available.

Internet

There are two nice Internet cafes in town.

Banks

There are no banks or ATMs in the Pavones area.  The closest towns offering these services are Rio Claro and Golfito.

Gas Stations

There are no gas stations in the area, but the hardware store sells small amounts of gas for $5+ a gallon. Better to fill up in the city of Rio Claro along Route 2 before heading south to Pavones.

Medical Clinics

In the town of Pavones, there are two resident American doctors and an EMT open for emergencies 24 hours a day. The Castillo de Pavones offers its Toyota Tacoma truck in emergency situations if visitors need to depart immediately for the hospital. The closest hospitals are in Golfito (2 hours by car) and in Ciudad Nelly (1 hour 10 minutes). There is a clinic in Conte open daily for minor injuries.

Cozy cabins and hotels can be found in and around the small surf town of Pavones, but most places have no more than four to six-room capacities. Availability is scarce from April through October, when surfing conditions are ripe – and particularly when swells are coming in from the south.

Telephones are a fairly recent addition to the Pavones area, and wireless Internet has not yet become common. Many new lodges offer air conditioning and hot water. Most accommodations cater to budget travelers. A few mid-range and luxury hotels offer all-inclusive packages (including alcoholic beverages) – with some properties boasting stunning vistas and mouthwatering in-house restaurants.  Camping is also allowed on the beach for those with a tent.

From Italian and Israeli delicacies to Costa Rican cuisine, both locals and foreigners alike bring a unique fusion of flavors to Pavones’ table. While lively, nightlife here is fairly relaxed in comparison to other popular beach towns.

Blue Morpho Lounge

Offering up some of the best food in Pavones, the Blue Morpho Lounge features homemade pasta, pizza, seafood and meat dishes. Located atop a precipitous hill, the atmosphere simply cannot be beat.  The restaurant is located on the second floor of hotel Castillo de Pavones, and serves a mix of unbelievable Italian, Californian and Brazilian cuisine. Travelers should note that this exceptional restaurant is only open Thursday, Friday, and Saturday evenings.

Bruschetta’s at la Pina Restaurant

Enjoy a night of authentic Italian food and imported wine at Bruschetta’s at La Pina. Crunchy bruschetta, thin crust pizza, and the best gnocchi on this side of Italy are just a few of this delicatessen’s specialties. The owner/chef is Italian-born and raised, so fine diners can rest assured that they are getting the real deal.

Soul n’ Surf

Soul n’ Surf is located to the left of the soccer field, just across the street from the Cantina. The Mexican eatery serves large platters of burritos, tacos and quesadillas. Locals highly recommend their fish taco plate.

Esquina del Mar Bar and Restaurant (a.k.a. “the Cantina”)

This beachside bar always has a crowd. Hungry, swimsuit-clad surfers flock here for beer and fish sandwiches during the day – and return for drink specials at night. Computers with Internet, webcams, headphones, and microphones are available for use for about $3 per hour.

Beaches:

Pavones

The rocky shores of Playa Pavones are littered with nooks and small beaches, each separated by a rocky outcropping or a bend in the shoreline. There is little development along the coast, which preserves the natural beauty of the area – and all buildings are set inland. Hidden rocks and unpredictable currents make Pavones’ waters less than ideal for swimming. Tidal pools, and the creatures that inhabit them, make for interesting beach walks at low tide.  Parking can be found along a dirt road that parallels the shore.

Punta Banco

Punta Banco is located two and a half miles south of Pavones. The beach breaks here are less consistent and a bit harder to surf, with waves crashing about 600 feet away from shore.

Zancudo

This grey sand beach is located just a few miles north of Pavones – but due to bumpy and winding roads, the journey takes at least 45 minutes by car. Waves are good for surfing, but not as impressive as the break at Pavones. Because it is so isolated, Playa Zancudo is almost always deserted.

Rivers and Waterfalls:

Rio Claro

Hiking up the Rio Claro is one of Pavones’ most popular and relaxing activities. Monkeys play along the riverbank, and the refreshing waters are perfect for swimming. The estuary where the Rio Claro flows into the Golfo Dulce is known as “The Point,” and is a wonderful place to watch surfers effortlessly glide across enormous waves.

Punta Banco Waterfall

Driving over the bridge to Punta Banco, a small waterfall with a swimming hole can be found on the left hand side.

Tiskita Waterfall

A 100-foot waterfall is situated just a short hike away from the Tiskita Biological Reserve. These cool waters are ideal for a quick dip.

Parks, Reserves and Refuges:

Guaymi Indian Reserve

At sunrise, travelers can partake in the five hour hike to the Guaymi Indian Reserve. This indigenous tribe lives at varying altitudes along southern Costa Rica and Panama. They are permitted to cross the border freely, which is exactly what they do each year when the Costa Rican coffee harvest is ripe. The Guaymi are a fairly self sufficient people, with each community growing their own crops – mostly corn, yucca, beans and rice. Many men work on cattle farms, and women sell handmade crafts like cloth bags, woven hats, colorful dolls and traditional jewelry.

Tiskita Biological Reserve

The Tiskita Biological Reserve offers exceptional birding and hiking throughout 800 acres of raw nature – 300 of which are primary rainforests. Run by the well-known biologist Peter Aspinall, the property is home to over 125 species of tropical fruit trees, 270 species of bird, and 60 species of butterfly. A number of conservation projects are in place at Tiskita, helping to recover endangered wildlife like scarlet macaws, peccaries and sea turtles.

Piedras Blancas National Park

Formerly considered a part of the legendary Corcovado National Park, Piedras Blancas is home to a mind-boggling array of plant and animal life. The area receives around 200 inches of rainfall per year, creating an incredibly lush habitat for a species list that is almost identical to Corcovado’s. Rescue organizations committed to scarlet macaws and wild cats have a great deal of success inside the park, mostly due to its extreme isolation. Peccaries, poison dart frogs, howler monkeys, crocodiles, and over 330 bird species inhabit the zone. Piedras Blancas is best reached by boat from Golfito, which is about a two hour drive from Pavones.

Air:

Local carriers Sansa and Nature Air offer daily flights into Puerto Jimenez and Golfito.

Golfito Airport: This is the most convenient because of its close proximity to Pavones. Rental cars are available in Golfito, and from here it is a two hour drive on a dirt road to Pavones. A public bus also runs twice daily.

Puerto Jimenez Airport: This option is better for those who wish to see a bit of the Osa Peninsula on their way to Pavones. From Puerto Jimenez, a ferry runs twice daily to Golfito. From Golfito, it is a two hour drive on a dirt road to Pavones. 

Boat:

Pavones does not have a dock, and as a result water landings are rare. Waves can reach enormous heights, so hiring a private boat can be a risky endeavor. Passengers should be prepared to get wet. Boats can be chartered from Golfito for about $140.

Bus: 

Buses depart San Jose for Golfito from the Tracopa station at 7:00 a.m. and 3:30 p.m. (the 3:30 p.m. bus is direct). The trip takes about eight hours and costs $12. Tracopa Tel: 2222-2666. Buses to Pavones depart Golfito daily at 10:30 a.m. and 3:30 p.m. The trip lasts two and a half to three hours and costs $2.40. 

To return to San Jose, buses depart Pavones daily at 5:30 a.m. and 12:30 p.m. for Golfito. They depart Golfito in front of the Deposito Libre at 5:00 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. The trip takes about eight hours and costs $12.

Car:

Take the Caldera highway from San Jose toward the central Pacific coast. Exit, following signs for Quepos/Manuel Antonio and continue on the Costanera Sur highway to Palmar Norte. Then you will get back on the Interamerican highway until Rio Claro. Continue south, turning left at the sign to Pavones – about nine miles before Golfito. At the Rio Claro, for about $.50 per person a small ferry transports people and cars from one side of the bank to the other. From here, it is only about 30 minutes to Pavones.

Taxi:

A 4WD taxi costs between $60 and $70 from Golfito. To ensure availability, be sure to make arrangements at least a few hours in advance.

Bird and Wildlife Watching

The rainforests around Pavones are extremely rich in biodiversity, providing a natural habitat for howler monkeys, toucans and sloths. The Tiskita Biological Reserve offers the best opportunities for wildlife viewing in the area, attracting an impressive species list to its grounds. There are over 270 varieties of bird in the area, including scarlet macaws and trogons.

Hiking

Beach walks and river hikes are a tranquil way to explore the area on foot. The Tiskita Biological Reserve features an impressive network of trails throughout 800 acres of verdant, unspoiled nature.

Horseback Riding

Horseback riding trips run along the beach, through the Tiskita Biological Reserve, and to the nearby Guaymi Indian Reserve.

Kayaking

Some places along the cool Rio Claro are deep enough for kayaking. Monkeys and other animals commonly populate the river’s shores.

Kite Surfing

Kite surfing conditions are ideal along the windy bay north of Pavones’ main point break. Here, winds blow inland – so there is no chance of getting swept out to sea. Kite surfing adventures for all skill levels are available, typically ranging from three days to one week in length.

Massage

A small spa offers body scrubs, face masks, massage and reflexology treatments. Therapists work magic on muscles, tendons, and general aches.

Mountain Biking

Many lodges and shops rent bicycles with locks by the day or week. Follow the shaded coastal road to explore the town.

Snorkeling and Diving

The best time to snorkel and scuba dive in Pavones is during the dry season (February-April), when the gulf is crystal clear and warm. Opportunities abound for viewing dolphins, rays, sea turtles, and a variety of tropical fish in their natural habitat. When waters are calm, the rocks in front of restaurant La Pina are ideal for underwater exploration. Another option is to drive minutes farther south to the shores of Punta Banco. Diving trips to Cabo Matapalo and a number of nearby islands off Panama can also be arranged.

Sport Fishing

Sport fishing journeys are available off 19’ boats with outboards. Red snapper, roosterfish, yellow fin tuna, mahi mahi, and king fish are just a few of the catches fishermen are likely to bring home for supper.

Stand-up Paddle Surfing

This fairly new sport is a cross between kayaking and surfing. Participants mount a surfboard and using a kayak paddle,  propel themselves forward and onto waves – almost as if they were sweeping a floor with a broom.

Surfing

Pavones is home to some of the best surfing in Costa Rica. A left break of 3/4 of a mile to one mile long (depending on where the measuring begins), makes it one of the longest in the world. Advanced surfers start at the southern end of the break and work their way left. Beginners try to stay out of their way by sticking to the northern section, where the waves peter out.

Local surf contests are held in April, May and June. Larger, sponsored events occur at least once per year.  Professional surfers visit Pavones year-round, but particularly during the rainy season. Several pros live here full time, and never fail to entertain the crowds with tricks that seem to defy the laws of physics.

When the swell comes in from the Pacific, waves grow to enormous heights. December and January are the most inconsistent months, with March and April bringing clear waters and steady waves. The rainy months of May to November offer absolutely perfect conditions, with warm temperatures and well-formed crests.

When Pavones is crowded, locals enjoy the beach break located five minutes south at Punta Banco. Here, waves peel left and right – and are sometimes slightly larger in size than in Pavones. Boat trips to surf Cabo Matapalo’s three famous breaks are also available, leading just four and a half miles across the Golfo Dulce.

Boards can be rented for about $15 from the surf shop across from the soccer field, or from the surf camp past Escuela Camino Claro.  This camp tailors mostly to female clients, and offers affordable, custom-designed excursions for large groups of women.

Swimming

The mouth of the Rio Claro is an ideal swimming location, especially popular with families.  Hikes upstream reveal several refreshing swimming holes and waterfalls. One of the best is located to the left of the bridge leading to Punta Banco.

Swimming in the ocean should be reserved for strong swimmers only – as a general rule, only 
surfers venture out past the breakers. Depending on the tides, locals can recommend nearby locations where currents and waves are gentler.

Yoga

Yoga classes are offered daily in a studio near the soccer field. Classes cost $10, and are mostly Bikram style. This type of yoga is also known as ‘hot yoga,’ as 26 poses are done in a room that is kept at 105° F with 40% humidity.