Puerto Viejo

Vacation in Puerto Viejo is a delicate balance between sunshine and starlight, sunburns and hangovers. Wake up early and catch the incoming tide along the beach breaks at Playa Cocles for big swells with fast-breaking lefts and rights, or leave it to the professionals and bathe in a tide pool while watching some of the world's best surfers tackle the monster barrels and powerful waves of Salsa Brava.

Puerto Viejo's more than just sun and sand though, it's immersed among rich cacao forests where chocolatiers make their own chocolate bars from freshly harvested cacao beans –grown, dried, roasted and processed all on the farm. Trek through the rainforest of the Gandoca Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge or hike through the Talamanca Mountains in search of waterfalls inside the Kekoldi and Bribri reservations and Hitoy Cerere Biological Reserve. Off the coast, divers and snorkelers will find a whole other kind of forest beneath the Caribbean Sea; a coral forest filled with bright colorful sponges, reef, sea fans and tunicates, each hiding its own array of marine life from minnows to eels, lobsters to lion fish. Adventures off the coast of Punta Mona include dolphin watching and fishing.

In Puerto Viejo, everything's close to the beach. While you may not always be right on the beach, you're only ever a short stroll from having your toes in the sand. With hostels, cabins, bungalows, hotel rooms and rental homes, Puerto Viejo's sure to have a little something for everyone.

With that in mind, you can enjoy the nightlife as well as a slew of low- and mid-range hotels in central Puerto Viejo and across Playa Negra, or you can spend your nights in a more natural setting among the mid- to high-range hotels that line the beaches farther south along Playa Cocles and Playa Chiquita.

Central Puerto Viejo

Bars, restaurants and most of Puerto Viejo's nightlife emanates outward from the town center. It's also where you find most of the town's services and facilities including the largest grocery stores, banks, pharmacies and souvenir shops. Nestled right along the coast beside Playa Chino, Parquecito and Salsa Brava, Puerto Viejo's close to the beach and a dozen different low- and mid-range hostels, bungalows and hotels.

• For $10 to $20 a night you can find hostels with private and shared dorms; hot water, fans, cable and Wi-Fi. Some hostels include breakfast while others offer fully-equipped kitchens.

• For about $40 to $65 per night, you'll find hotel rooms and bungalows close to the beach with private bathrooms, hot water, Wi-Fi, fans and pools. Some serve breakfast, but it's not included in the room rate.

Playa Negra

Playa Negra's smile stretches seven miles from ear to ear connecting Cahuita National Park to Puerto Viejo. Along this stretch you'll find low- and mid-priced lodging among the area's hotels, bungalows and hostels, some of which are very close to central Puerto Viejo, without out all the noise.

• For $10 to $20 a night you can find hostels with private or shared dorms; hot water, fans, cable and Wi-Fi close to the beach and to town. Some hostels include breakfast while others offer fully-equipped kitchens.

• For about $50 to $100 per night with breakfast, you'll find hotel rooms and bungalows close to the beach with private bathrooms, hot water, Wi-Fi, fans and pools.

Playa Cocles

Across the street from the golden sands of Playa Cocles, visitors will find plenty of mid- and high-range options, as well as a few restaurants, cafés and bars.

• For about $60 to $100 per night, you'll find hotel rooms and bungalows close to the beach with private bathrooms, hot water, Wi-Fi, fans and pools. Most include breakfast.

• For $200 to $300 per night, you'll find luxury accommodations with queen-size beds, fans, A/C, Plasma TVs, cable, Wi-Fi, Ipod docks, mini-bars and safety deposit boxes close to the beach with breakfast included.

Playa Chiquita

As visitors head farther south toward Punta Uva and Manzanillo along Route 36, the jungle envelops the views of the beach. More tranquil and more natural than central Puerto Viejo, Playa Chiquita offers a more relaxing and luxurious low- to high-priced accommodations that include bungalows, hotels and rental homes. In addition, Playa Chiquita has a handful of well-respected restaurants, small grocery stores and gift shops.

• For about $50 to $100 per night, you'll find hotel rooms and bungalows with private bathrooms, hot water, Wi-Fi, fans and pools.

• For about $250 to $300 per night, you'll find rental homes with two bedrooms, full-equipped kitchens, patios and private hot tubs, Wi-Fi, fans and safety deposit boxes; nearby the beach.

A ribbon of white sand beaches curls around the Puerto Viejo coastline. In turns sun-bleached and shaded underneath coastal almonds and palm trees, the beaches are the primary habitats for guests seeking the tranquility and beauty of the southern Caribbean. Swim off-shore among the reefs for a respite from the sun and a look into a world beneath the waves; a vibrant and colorful world of tropical fish, sponges and coral. Immerse yourself in the rainforest among the Gandoca Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge , the Kekoldi and BriBri reservations and the Hitoy Cerere Biological Reserve or meet the Puerto Viejo's wildlife at the Jaguar Rescue Center then explore a cacao forest along one of Puerto Viejo's chocolate tours.

Most Puerto Viejo's services and facilities reside along the main street that runs through town. There you'll find banks, pharmacies, clothing stores, gift shops, supermarkets and corner stores.

Cell Phone

Cell phone service is good in Puerto Viejo, but fades a little bit as you head south toward Manzanillo.

Public Phones

Puerto Viejo has a few public phones along the main street and beachfront road. They operate with phone cards, not coins. You can buy a phone card in any pharmacy or grocery store.

Internet

Most mid-range and upscale hotels, hostels and several restaurants offer free Wi-Fi access.

Post Office

Located next to the Licorera Mane. It offers both national and international mail services. Open Monday through Friday, 8:00 a.m.-5:30 p.m.; closed 12:00 p.m.-1:00 p.m.

Banks

Puerto Viejo has two banks: Banco de Costa Rica and the Banco Nacional. You'll find them near the small bridge to Playa Negra, just south of the post office. These banks have the only ATMs in Puerto Viejo, and they occasionally run out of money, so don't wait until the last minute to take out more cash.

Gas Station

There is no gas station in Puerto Viejo. The closest place to fill up is a few miles north, near the turnoff to Bribri.

Medical Facilities

There is an emergency medical service office downtown, just a few steps from the Banco de Costa Rica. For minor accidents and general maladies, all pharmacies in Costa Rica are required to employ an in-house pharmacist/doctor, who is able to treat minor health issues and prescribe certain medications.  The nearest hospital is in Limon – about 45 minutes away.

Bus

Auto Transportes MEPE, a Costa Rican bus company, services San Jose, Bribri, Cahuita, Puerto Viejo, Sixaola and Manzanillo routes.

San Jose to Puerto Viejo: $9.50; 6:00 a.m., 10:00 a.m., 12:00 p.m., 2:00 p.m. and 4:00 p.m.; 4.5 hours, daily. Departs Transportes Mepe in the San Carlos Terminal, located on Avenida 9 and Calle 12. Tel: 2257-8129.

Limon to Puerto Viejo: $2.75; every hour 5:00 a.m.- 6:00 p.m.; 2.5 hours. Departs from Puerto Viejo station located at the east corner of the Big Boy Baseball Stadium. Auto Transportes MEPE, 2758-0618.

Puerto Viejo to San Jose: $9.50; 7:30 a.m., 9:00 a.m., 11:00 a.m., 4:00 p.m.; 4.5 hours. Departs from main bus station, located across from Playa Chino. Auto Transportes MEPE, 2750-0023.

Car

From San Jose, the 135-mile journey takes between three and a half and five hours, depending on traffic and road conditions. Take Route 32 out of San Jose, driving through Braulio Carrillo National Park. Follow the signs to Guapiles, Siquirres and Limon/Puerto Limon. In Limon, turn south on Route 36, veer south on Route 256 follow the signs to Puerto Viejo.

Shuttle Transfer

Greyhound and Interbus offer private, air-conditioned shuttles for hotel-to-hotel/airport transport. Tel. 4031-0888.

San Jose to Puerto Viejo, $49; Departs 7:50 a.m.; 4.5 hours.

Puerto Viejo to San Jose, $49; Departs 6:50 a.m., 2:15 p.m.; 3 to 4 hours.

Puerto Viejo's international community has created a surging culinary scene where you'll find artisanal Italian gelato and homemade pasta, Spanish charcuterie and pastries, fresh sushi, spicy Thai and a formidable list of restaurants to back it up. Of course it's also the southern Caribbean where you'll find cacao, coconut, banana, passion fruit, mango and all the other key ingredients that go into savory Caribbean casados, coconut-infused rice and beans, stewed pork or chicken, delicious seafood Carpaccio and Costa Rican ceviche. 

Central Puerto Viejo

You'll find the highest concentration of restaurants in central Puerto Viejo with longstanding favorites like Asian-themed Chile Rojo and Lotus Garden; homemade pizza and pasta at A Mi Modo and Café Viejo, and one of the best breakfast places in town – Pan Pay. For fresh seafood, get to Lazlo's place around 5:30 p.m., they don't take reservations and they only serve what they catch that day, but it's worth it. Alternatively, try the mixed seafood plate at Mopri, you won't be disappointed.

The nightlife in central Puerto Viejo burns the candle at both ends with bars and nightclubs that open at noon and close just before the sunrise. You'll find two-for-one happy hours at almost every bar in town, as well as nightly deals and parties like Friday night beer pong and Sunday night open mic at the Lazy Mon, Thursday's ladies night at Mango and weekend DJ events at bars all over central Puerto Viejo.

Playa Negra

Stop in for a craft beer at Luke's Taproom in Kaya's place just a five-minute walk from the bridge in central Puerto Viejo. Bar owner and craft brewer, JT, brews beer inspired by his surroundings using local ingredients in beers like honey mango brown ale, ginger mead and chocolate porter for $5 a pint. Or, visit The Point sports bar and grill on the far side of Playa Negra for some beach eats and a chance to catch the night's soccer game.

Playa Cocles

For the biggest weekly event along Playa Cocles, drop in for Taco Tuesdays at Tasty Waves with $4 tacos, happy hour from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. and live music starting at 5:30 p.m. Chocolate lovers will want to visit Caribeans Café for organic chocolate bars made on the farm just behind the café (with daily tours leaving from Caribeans).

Playa Chiquita

Outside of central Puerto Viejo, Playa Chiquita has some of the area's best restaurants. Pecora Nera, is renowned both locally and nationally for its unique and inspired Italian menu. For something equally creative but less expensive, try the innovative Spanish influenced cuisine at Pura Gula.

Depending on your vacation style, a car may or may not be necessary for sightseeing around Puerto Viejo. Generally, if you plan to visit out-of-the-way sights and travel the area’s numerous unbeaten paths, a car is a good choice. However, if you plan only to travel to the area’s local, well-known sights, a combination of walking, biking, buses and taxis will be a less expensive and very comfortable way to travel.

Distance Approximations: 

Puerto Viejo to Bribri: 6.5 miles

Puerto Viejo to Manzanillo: 8 miles

Puerto Viejo to Cahuita: 9 miles

Cahuita to Manzanillo: 17 miles

Cahuita to Bribri: 12 miles

On Foot:

Puerto Viejo is a very relaxed, Caribbean town where life seems to move more slowly. Visitors without a rigid schedule may find walking to be the most pleasant way to get around. In fact, many visitors and residents prefer to hoof it around the town’s dirt roads, and, unlike in many parts of Costa Rica, cars and motorcycles often slow down or make way for pedestrians.

Bicycle:

Bicycles are the preferred way to get around town, since they maneuver around potholes with ease and are much faster than walking. Biking from Puerto Viejo to Manzanillo is highly recommended – quiet roads and beautiful scenery await travelers. Many hotels and local shops rent bikes for $10 per day.

Car:

Puerto Viejo’s roads call for a bit of patience and a heavy dose of good humor, but they’ll get you where you’re going. Corrosive sea winds and heavy rains regularly eat away at the road surface, so most roads are a combination of potholes, dirt, gravel and newly-repaired asphalt. Drive slowly, especially when unfamiliar with the road, and be prepared to transition from paved to potholed dirt in an instant. Cars can be rented in Limon and Puerto Viejo.

Taxi:

Taxis are prevalent in Puerto Viejo, so don’t hesitate to take advantage of their experienced drivers and reasonable fares. Be sure to use official taxis only – they are red and marked with a yellow triangle on the doors – and remember that they do not use the meter. Be sure to agree on a fare before embarking.

Sample Taxi Fares:

Puerto Viejo to Bribri: $18

Puerto Viejo to Punta Cocles: $6

Puerto Viejo to Punta Uva: $10

Puerto Viejo to Cahuita: $20- $25 (depending on your bargaining skills)

Public Bus:

The southern Caribbean boasts decent public bus service. Transportes Mepe runs two routes: Limon to Sixaola via Cahuita, Puerto Viejo, and Bribri; and Limon to Manzanillo via Cahuita and Puerto Viejo. Limon-Sixaola buses run every hour from 5:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., and the Limon-Manzanillo buses have the following schedule:

Limon

—»      Cahuita    Puerto Viejo    Manzanillo

06:00              07:00    07:30    08:00

10:30              11:30    12:00    12:30

15:00              16:00    16:30    17:00

18:00              19:00    19:30    20:00

Manzanillo

—»      Puerto Viejo    Cahuita    Limon

05:00               05:30    06:00    07:00

08:15               08:45    09:15    10:15

12:45               13:15    13:45    14:45

17:00               17:30    18:00    19:00