San Jose

Multicolored markets, tucked-away gardens and brazen street vendors paint the city's landscape, while city parks and landscaped plazas decorate San Jose's lively downtown. For more cultural pursuits, a city tour will tell a history of victory and defeat. San Jose's museums and churches promise insight into the country's past and present, from contemporary art and jade jewelry to towering steeples and stained glass. Visit the country's first airport, where art now hangs on the walls, or a bullet-riddled remembrance of Costa Rica's civil war, which today houses the country's greatest historical artifacts.

Barrio Amon

If you're looking for old-world Costa Rican charm and colonial architecture, then Barrio Amon is the place to be. This was once the neighborhood of choice for the city's elite, but most vestiges of the old life were toppled by severe earthquakes. Today, several mansions built with coffee dollars remain, and promise some of the city's most beautiful colonial architecture.

Crafts & Artisans Market

Located just west of the National Museum, this quaint market offers souvenirs and crafts at prices that can't be beat. Beautiful wood crafts and handmade jewelry are the market's standouts. Always be sure to ask if a product is made in Costa Rica – vendors here are generally honest about their products' origins.

Parque Nacional de Diversiones (The Amusement Park)

Costa Rica’s only amusement park is located in La Uruca, one mile west of the Hospital Mexico. The park itself offers more than 80 rides and attractions, while the self-contained Pueblo Antiguo ("Old Town") offers a look back into traditional Costa Rican life. 

Parque Zoologico Simon Bolivar

This park, located two blocks northeast of Avenida 11 and Calle 7, is home to a large variety of native Costa Rican wildlife. In the past, the zoo was plagued by complaints, but recent donations have helped to vastly improve the park's conditions. There are still improvements to be made, so if you're looking for a guilt-free zoo, see Alajuela's Zoo Ave, a wildlife rehabilitation and animal rights center.

Spirogyra Butterfly Garden

This small downtown garden, located just 150 meters south of Guadalupe's El Pueblo Shopping Center, offers 30 species of butterflies and five species of hummingbirds. Included in the garden's entrance fee is a walk along the Relaxation Trail, a rustic path so quiet it’s hard to believe San Jose is right outside the gate. (San Jose. 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., Mon-Sun. $6 adults, $3 children. 2222-2937)

San Jose is a vibrant, cosmopolitan city with many amenities and interesting things to do. Everyday needs are met by the city's wealth of shopping malls, Internet cafes, department stores, restaurants, universities and small shops. For more touristy pursuits, visitors can visit San Jose's museums, statues, landmarks and churches, learning more about Costa Rica's history and culture with every stop.

If you crave city culture and a look into San Jose's soul, a stop at the Central Market will do the trick. The bright yellow facade houses everything from typical cooking implements and recipe ingredients to colorful hammocks, handmade goods and fresh, typical home cooking. You'll find yourself surrounded by real Costa Ricans as well as tourists, all looking for great deals and something to fill their stomachs.

San Jose's daytime activities are eclipsed every night by the lively nightclubs and packed bars that dot the city's center. For a cold glass of Costa Rica's favorite beers – Imperial and Pilsen – and a rousing game of soccer on the television, head to one of the city's many sports bars (in truth, the challenge is to find a bar that doesn't have soccer on the screen). For dancing, swing to be beats of traditional merengue, salsa and cumbia music, jam out at one of the city's hip rock clubs or lose yourself in modern techno and trip hop.

San Jose is an excellent base for exploring local attractions in the Central Valley. You’re less than an hour from verdant rainforest, coffee plantations and some of the country's most exciting adventure activities like canopy tours and whitewater rafting.

Bacchus

Housed in a 19th-century historic home, this Italian eatery strikes a balance of elegance and gourmet cuisine. Dine al fresco on the covered back patio – the best seats in the house also afford views of the restaurant's wood-burning pizza oven and open kitchen. Come with an appetite and choose from the rotating menu of antipasti, pizzas, pastas and other delectable dishes.

Casa China

Completely redecorated in 2011, Casa China, or the Chinese House, promises the city's best Chinese food. Excellent prices are only eclipsed by the restaurant's authentic dim sum menu, which features mouthwatering morsels perfect for sampling and sharing. For a true experience, pair the meal with an ice-cold Tsingtao beer.

Chancay

Peruvian cuisine specializes in seafood, and no one does it better than Chancay. The menu offers ethnic dishes like the trilogia de causas – cold octopus, tuna, and prawns on a bed of spiced mashed potatoes – and adds Asian flavors like shrimp baked in oyster sauce. For serious indulgence, try the seafood au gratin, a trio of calamari, shrimp and fish baked in cheeses and served on the half shell.

Fuji

Many consider Fuji to be one of the world's best Japanese restaurants outside Japan, and for good reason. The restaurant is a study in Japanese culture, decorated with tatami mats and hot tables, and has chefs schooled in traditional Japanese flavors and preparations. The restaurant's unique sushi preparations are excellent.

Grano de Oro Restaurant

This downtown favorite serves French food in a restored colonial mansion. The restaurant, which is part of the Hotel Grano de Oro, offers upscale cuisine with prices to match, but is definitely worth the splurge for special occasions. The chef outdoes himself with dishes like sea bass coated in toasted macadamia nuts in a light orange sauce, or the marquise de chocolate, a dessert crafted from semi-frozen dark and white chocolate terrine, served with Bailey's ice cream and raspberry coulis.

La Esquina de Buenos Aires

This Argentinean restaurant is the go-to destination for meat lovers in San Jose. The Argentinean grill always seems to sizzle with short ribs, chorizo, and chicken kebobs. For a more formal dinner, try main courses like beef loin in black beer reduction or Buenos Aires-style shrimp served in a creamy fish sauce.

Lubnan

Definitely the best Moroccan food and vibe in town, Lubnan is home to low-slung couches, giant mezze plates, belly dancers, and flavored hookah. This is a great choice for groups of friends, as the varied menu offers a little of everything, from spicy, traditional Moroccan to vegetarian favorites like baba ghanoush and falafel.

Nuestra Tierra

For a traditional Costa Rican feast, even the locals head to Nuestra Tierra, which sits across the street from the National Museum. Order a fresh-brewed coffee from the traditional Costa Rican coffee sock, or pick your favorite flavor of casado – rice, beans, salad and plantains served with beef, fish, chicken or pork. Some of the choices can be a bit bland, so ask the waiter about daily specials.

Shakti

San Jose is home to a slew of vegetarian and vegan-friendly restaurants, but none is so popular as Shakti. Here, macrobiotic fare is the specialty, and the kitchen serves up a host of ingenious and flavorful dishes. Enjoy unique takes on Costa Rica's exotic fruits and vegetables, or grab a thick slice of healthy homemade bread. Shakti is about simple fare and delicious cuisine.

Taj Mahal

As San Jose's only restaurant dedicated solely to Indian cuisine, tables at Taj Mahal are in high demand. From crispy samosas to creamy chicken tikka masala, the kitchen turns out dishes that are seasoned according to the customer's preference – choose your own spice level. Diners will enjoy sitting in the peacock garden or on the outdoor patio, while groups and private events often enjoy the restaurant's private salon.

When the sun goes down, San Jose beckons visitors to get their dance and drink on at these top venues:

Castros

One of the capital's best choices for traditional dancing, Castros plays merengue, salsa, cumbia and bolero, with a bit of reggaeton thrown in. Arrive by 9:00 p.m. to secure a table.

Jazz Cafe

With locations in San Pedro and Escazu, the Jazz Cafe has the city covered for chill evenings and live music. Local Costa Rican beats and soulful jazz are popular, but the Jazz Cafe also gets nostalgic with regular visits from 70s, 80s and 90s cover bands.

Shakespeare Bar

A favorite among the cultured crowd, the Shakespeare Bar is a popular stop after a night of live music or opera. Sophisticated decor and tranquil music complement the cosmopolitan atmosphere.

Vertigo

Techno beats pump so loudly that club-goers can't hear themselves speak – but isn't that the point? This is San Jose's hippest spot for electronica, and Vertigo plays up the image with strobe lighting, glow-in-the-dark wristbands, and other kitschy details.

San Jose is not just Costa Rica’s political capital, but also a social and cultural center. The city is divided into many neighborhoods called barrios, and each offers a variety of amenities and a personality all its own. 

Downtown

Downtown San Jose, known as “el centro” or “Chepe,” is reserved mostly for business and politics. A pedestrian mall occupies Avenida Central, where retail stores, hotels and political offices fan out into the city. The downtown area is also the city’s cultural center: the Gold, Jade and National Museums as well as the performing arts are headquartered here. Accommodations are limited, although a few chic hotels frame the Democracy Square. Avoid lodging near the Coca-Cola bus stop; though convenient, the neighborhood is not recommended for overnights. Due to a lack of housing, very few people live in San Jose’s downtown, but the coveted residential neighborhoods of La Sabana, Barrio Amon and Barrio Aranjuez are very central, located just half a mile outside of downtown. 

Barrio Amon & Aranjuez

Located north of downtown, the upscale sections of Barrio Amon and Aranjuez are home to some of Costa Rica’s most historic buildings. The area’s grand, colonial architecture features hand-carved woodwork, wraparound porches, ornate roof eaves and other quaint details of a bygone era. Capitalizing on the neighborhood’s charm, several restored hotels and fine dining restaurants have cropped up in both Amon and Aranjuez, adding to the area’s appeal. Hotel options range from budget-friendly hostels to B&B’s in restored colonial mansions that feature elegant rooms. Tourists and house hunters should note that only certain areas of both neighborhoods are desirable; some sections are more rundown and may be frequented by streetwalkers. 

San Pedro, Los Yoses & Barrio Escalante

San Jose’s eastern suburbs are upper middle-class residential neighborhoods, favored by students, professionals, and young families. Los Yoses and Barrio Escalante are more reserved, with older, larger homes and a casual grace. San Pedro, home to the University of Costa Rica, exudes a young, hip vibe. The San Pedro Mall, Outlet Mall and Multiplaza del Este are all convenient to the area, which also boasts one of San Jose’s largest selections of restaurants and nightlife. From hole-in-the-wall diners and college dive bars to fine dining and live music venues, these three suburbs are a favorite for active city dwellers and tourists. San Pedro is home to every type of lodging, from one of Costa Rica’s chicest hostels, to a stylish, French colonial boutique hotel furnished in antiques and accented with top-notch service.  

La Sabana

At the western end of Paseo Colon, beautiful La Sabana Park offers wide, open spaces, towering eucalyptus trees, a small lake, an art museum and Costa Rica’s new soccer stadium – the perfect respite from the busy city. The neighborhoods of Sabana Norte and Sabana Sur surround the park, and are favorites among young professionals, students and residents that prefer the hustle and bustle of the capital city. Residents and tourists alike appreciate the wealth of urban conveniences; the neighborhood is a mile from downtown theaters, opera and other nightlife, and just a short ride away from  gourmet restaurants. La Sabana is a prime destination for overnight guests in San Jose; choose from budget hostels to the most luxurious boutique hotel in the city. In 2009, the city’s most fashionable condo towers were built in La Sabana. The modern buildings feature incredible views and amenities, and were designed to spark interest in upscale urban development, a newer concept in San Jose. 

Rohrmoser

A few minutes west of La Sabana, Rohrmoser was San Jose’s first suburb for the upwardly mobile. Tree-lined boulevards and playgrounds accent residential neighborhoods, which are home to the highest concentration of foreign embassies in Costa Rica – including the U.S. Embassy. Many professionals and expats prefer Rohrmoser for its city conveniences and established neighborhoods known for their safety and tranquility. Tourists can expect the same relaxed ambiance: local B&B’s and inns cater to families and older travelers in search of convenience and hospitality.

Escazu

Escazu is often referred to as “Little America,” thanks to its huge population of English-speaking expats, abundance of American chain restaurants, and luxury condominiums. The sophisticated suburb enjoys beautiful weather as well as some of Costa Rica’s finest restaurants, most prestigious private schools, and distinguished country clubs. Escazu is also very convenient to downtown – only 10 or 15 minutes by car to San Jose. Both family-run inns and deluxe chain hotels are prevelant. Opt for a room with a view – nighttime vistas of San Jose paint the valley with twinkling city lights.

Santa Ana

Noted for its verdant mountains and constant breezes, Santa Ana offers the perfect blend of city and nature. Less than 15 minutes from San Jose, it is an established suburb of stately neighborhoods, gated communities and traditional homes – and a favorite among upper middle-class professionals. Known for its ideal weather, Santa Ana offers an abundance of outdoor activities, from horseback riding classes to golfing on championship courses. Enjoy the sun and outdoors at one of the suburb’s small inns or B&B’s, which promise relaxed evenings and personalized service. 

By Bus:

San Jose's public buses can take you anywhere in the city for a tiny price. If you arm yourself with basic bus-riding knowledge, shed your worries and prepare for adventure, San Jose's buses will soon become your best friends. Generally, San Jose city buses run from 5 a.m. until 11 p.m. Monday-Sunday. Buses are supposed to stop only at official bus stops – decorated with a bench and, often, a shelter from the rain – but will usually stop for anyone who flags them down. Just stick your arm out, and flail wildly.

Despite how easy it is to catch the bus, finding your bus stop in San Jose is no easy task. Since the city does not publish an official map or bus schedule, you'll have to ask around for your bus’ origination point. The beginning of each local route is usually marked by a sign, and often accompanied by a cheque, a man hired by the bus company to facilitate passenger travel. Cheques are usually very busy and rushed, but they can be a great help in figuring out which bus to take.  Identify them by their know-how attitude and the whistle that dangles from their lips at all times.

Local San Jose bus stops are grouped into general areas.  For example, all San Pedro buses congregate at the eastern end of Avenida Central's pedestrian mall.  Buses to Escazu stop just north of the Coca-Cola bus station. It seems like everyone downtown knows where the bus stops are, so if you get lost, just ask for directions by saying "Perdon, sabe usted donde paran los buses de ____?" (Pehr-done, sah-bay oo-sted done-day pahr-ahn lohs boos-ays day ____? = Excuse me, do you know where the buses to ____ stop?)

When you've found your area bus stop, it's time to identify your specific route. Each San Jose bus is well-labeled, with the general route name (San Pedro or Escazu, for example) along the very top of the windshield, the specific route name (like the Granadilla neighborhood of San Pedro) in the bottom left of the windshield (near the door), and usually, the route fare just below the specific route name. Often, buses will also have small signs that indicate major stops along the way, so if you're heading to a mall or big shopping center, you're in luck. If you need help finding your specific bus, though, just ask a cheque, fellow passenger, or bus driver – all will be happy to help.

As you board the bus, do not stand between the two vertical metal bars, which may be located at the bottom of the stairs, the top of the stairs, or just after you pay the bus driver. Have 200-300 colones ready before you get on the bus. If you don't have single coins, don't worry, a 500 CRC coin or even a 2000 CRC bill will be accepted.

By Car:

If driving in downtown San Jose, note that vehicle usage is restricted according to day of the week and the final digit of your vehicle's license plate. There are no restrictions for weekend driving, and taxis, buses and handicap vehicles are always exempt. The restriction is often lifted during holidays. As of early 2012, the current fine is 36,060 CRC (about $72).

The restricted area stretches from Cinco Esquinas in Tibas, east through Guadalupe and the Fuente de la Hispanidad in San Pedro, south to the Walmart in San Sebastian, and west past the Hatillos circunvalacion into Pavas. Private, non-commercial vehicles are banned from 6:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. depending on their final plate numbers:

• Monday                         1 or 2


• Tuesday                        3 or 4


• Wednesday                  5 or 6


• Thursday                      7 or 8

• Friday                            9 or 0

By Taxi:

For San Jose taxi trips, always make sure that the meter is running at the beginning of your ride. (Puede poner la maria, por favor? – Could you please turn the meter on?) If not, the taxista may take advantage of your tourist status and charge an exorbitant fee at the end of the trip. For longer rides, always try to negotiate a fee: first ask the driver how much he'll charge, then counter with a sum 25% less than the driver’s.  Depending on the driver and your smile, your offer will be accepted or refused.  You must have basic Spanish to complete these negotiations, as many taxi drivers don't speak English.

San Jose and its outlying areas are full of lodging options, from budget hostels to luxury hotels. With so many accommodation choices, all you need to do is pick your price and your preferred location, and enjoy your stay. For budget backpackers, downtown San Jose offers myriad hostels close to nightlife and budget-friendly restaurants. You'll pay a bit more for a private bathroom and hot water, and the colonial Barrio Amon and La Sabana offer mid-range hotels starting around $45.

For a peaceful and mountainous setting, choose Escazu or Santa Ana, two of the city's most luxurious suburbs. Boutique hotels and upscale guesthouses dot the landscape. Reservations are not always necessary, though travelers visiting during the high season (December through April) are advised to book rooms in advance. During Christmas and Easter weeks, visitors should reserve hotels several months prior to arrival.

The Juan Santamaria International Airport (SJO) was completely renovated in 2010 and is served by fifteen major airlines. Generally speaking, ticket prices from the States are more expensive during the high season (December-April), especially around Christmas, New Year’s (January 1), and Easter week. Note that the international airport is in Alajuela, a 20-minute drive from San Jose. 

A taxi into San Jose costs around $25, while public buses will set you back just over $1 and pass the airport every ten minutes. Look for red TUASA and yellow Station Wagon buses, both of which stop directly in front of the arrivals terminal, beyond the car park area. For travelers with lots of heavy or oversized luggage, it is recommended that you take a taxi, as many public buses have limited cargo space or staff to assist with baggage.

Many of the major car rental agencies have booths at the airport to facilitate convenient pick ups and returns. 

 

At first glance, navigating downtown San Jose is a breeze. The city is laid out in a perfect grid, with avenues (avenidas) running east-west, and streets (calles) traveling north-south. Calle Central (Central Street) and Avenida Central (Central Avenue) are the center of San Jose's grid system.  To the west of Calle Central, all calles ascend in even numbers (Calle 2, Calle 4, etc.), and to the east, in odd numbers. Similarly, to the north of Avenida Central, avenidas ascend in odd numbers, and travel south in even numbers. 

West of Calle 14, Avenida Central becomes Paseo Colon, a major motor thoroughfare extending 2.5 kilometers from downtown to La Sabana park and neighborhood. To the east, Avenida Central joins with Avenida Segunda around Calle 29, traveling into the Los Yoses/San Pedro neighborhoods. 

For those on foot, Avenida Central is the heart of San Jose, with a pedestrian mall that extends from Calle 6 to Calle 9 (8 blocks). This San Jose section is known as the financial district, the city's most thriving area. Street vendors line the pedestrian section of Avenida Central, peddling all kinds of wares, from t-shirts to lottery tickets. Around Plaza de la Cultura, where you'll find the Pre-Columbian Gold Museum and National Theatre, the boulevard is lined with flower shops and cafes, perfect for an outdoor lunch or coffee break. Please note that, though you will find people walking these streets 24 hours a day, if you're unfamiliar with downtown, you should avoid walking after 10 p.m. 

Finding Your Way in San Jose:

Once you've got the city’s basic layout under your belt, navigating San Jose will be easier, though not without its challenges. It is uncommon for Josefinos, San Jose residents, to give directions using calles and avenidas. In fact, mail is rarely delivered to street addresses because most roads are unmarked, and very few people know what street they live on. Some roads, however, do have street name signs hung on corners, about sixteen feet off of the ground, though they are not used to indicate addresses or give directions. [Note: A recent campaign to create street and mailing addresses began in 2000, but the process is slow, and has not yet had any effect on San Jose direction-giving.] 

To give directions, Costa Ricans begin by referencing a landmark, such as a government building or big supermarket. As a tourist, landmarks can be tricky, especially since several are long gone, remaining landmarks in memory only (the Coca-Cola bus station is a famous example of this). Don't worry though, Ticos (Costa Ricans) are notoriously friendly, and many will help you find any landmark you're looking for. Just smile, ask again, and point liberally. 

Directions or a typical address might look like "300 meters north of Central Park, 200 meters east, and 50 meters north." To decipher these directions, start first at Central Park, and orient yourself to north, south, east, and west – it helps to remember that churches in Costa Rica always face west. In addition, keep in mind that "cien metros" (100 meters) is always equal to one city block. So, for the above directions, head north for three blocks (300 meters), then turn east for another 2 blocks (200 meters). Then, head north for just half a block (50 meters), and start looking around – your destination should be somewhere nearby.